Behind the seams: The power of costume designs in cinema

In the world of cinema, numerous elements contribute to the influence of the film, and among these factors, costume design stands as a particularly important one that can often go untalked about. Every garment tells a story, with carefully chosen cuts, colors, and styles serving as the characters' voices, revealing their emotions, surroundings, or even the otherworldly essence the film seeks to convey. A costume can narrate a tale; and sometimes, specific design choices can become the origin of a whole new story. Throughout the history of cinema, there have been numerous significant film costume designers, with original visions, who created pieces that are simply impossible to forget. This article will delve into some of the most iconic film costumes of all time.

1. Sunset Boulevard, 1950

Sunset Boulevard, 1950 © IMDb

Legendary eight-time Oscar winner Edith Head's work on the 1950 dark comedy 'Sunset Boulevard,' directed by Billy Wilder, stands as one of cinema's finest costume achievements. In this film exploring the crumbling glamour of Hollywood's past and the complex relationship between ageing silent film star Norma Desmond (Gloria Swanson) and struggling playwright Joe Gillis (William Holden), clothing becomes a potent tool to externalise the characters' inner worlds. Norma's extravagant wardrobe symbolises her refusal to let go of her glamorous past, while Joe's modern, casual attire underscores his stark realism and descent into moral ambiguity, creating a striking visual contrast that mirrors their emotional and psychological journeys. Edith Head's costume designs in the film serve as compelling illustrations of the profound impact that clothing can have on individuals. They vividly demonstrate how attire can serve as a potent means of self-expression, reflecting not only who we are but also our aspirations and desires.

2. Gone with the Wind, 1939

Gone with the Wind, 1939 © IMDb

The most iconic period costumes were designed by Walter Plunkett for the classic from Hollywood’s Golden Age, ‘Gone with the Wind’ by Victor Fleming. The film reserves its most profound spotlight for the exquisite gowns donned by Scarlett O'Hara, embodied by Vivien Leigh. Her dresses are veritable mirrors, reflecting Scarlett's character evolution through their metamorphosis from innocent, pristine whites to the solemn hues of mourning, culminating in the iconic green garments. The continued buzz about the film owes much to these captivating costumes. In ‘Gone with the Wind’ Plunket created the designs that completely redefined Hollywood's approach to period film costumes. 

3. Medea, 1969

Medea, 1969 © IMDb

To embody one of the most tragic yet enigmatic figures, Medea requires not only exceptional casting but also magnificent costume designs that transport the audience into the very essence of her mythic life. Italian film director Pier Paolo Pasolini achieved this goal with the legendary Maria Callas in the lead role. Beyond the intricate storyline and Callas's compelling presence, the film boasts exceptional costume designs by Piero Tosi, a renowned figure from the golden age of Italian cinema. These costumes authentically capture the mythical and ancient atmosphere of the tale, with unique jewellery and garments that contribute to the film's immersive and timeless quality. These pieces made it nearly impossible to envision Medea in any other way than Maria Callas adorned in these eccentric yet timeless designs.

4. The Seventh Seal, 1957