Gabrielle Chanel at V&A: An ode to timeless elegance

The Victoria and Albert Museum's latest exhibition dedicated to Chanel is a complete immersion into a world of timeless elegance and groundbreaking fashion. It's not just a mere display of her work. Rather, it serves as a gateway to the core of luxury, audacity, and the lasting impact she made on the world of women's fashion. Coco Chanel's transformative effect on women's clothing, transitioning from male-influenced, constricting, and rigid garments to women-inspired, menswear-influenced, and modernist designs, was a pivotal force in shaping the fashion and garment construction of the 20th century.

The exhibition, with its dark and seductive allure, commences by introducing us to Gabrielle Chanel, who became known as Coco Chanel during her illustrious career. Born on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France, Chanel faced the tragedy of orphanhood at the tender age of 12. Following a brief stint as a café singer, she came to a profound realisation that the entertainment industry was not her true calling. In 1909, with the support of her lover, Etienne Balsan, she established a millinery boutique in the heart of Paris. However, it was her pivotal relocation to a boutique in Deauville in 1913 that marked a significant turning point in her career. It was here that she introduced her groundbreaking sportswear collection, providing women with the freedom to dress themselves without the constraints of the male gaze.

Coco Chanel's emphasis on comfortable fits and elegantly simple designs gradually gave rise to the iconic "Chanel look" in 1923, setting a new standard for women's fashion. Here are some of the highlights of the show. 

The Little Black Dress

It would only be appropriate to focus firstly on the heart of the exhibition – the little black dress. A true fashion icon, the dress no doubt symbolises versatility, effortless sophistication and rebellion. Her interpretation of this classic piece marked a feminist departure from the fussy, performative fashions of the time. She understood her modern woman’s needs, the sharp, minimalistic silhouettes created a canvas of self-expression for whatever the occasion. This became a total staple, vogue naming it “The Ford of Chanel” a popular little dress which she could adapt to fit whatever trend or occasion as a moment of freedom.

Chanel No.5, perhaps her most renowned creation, also graces the exhibition as its centrepiece. In 1921, Gabrielle collaborated with perfumer Ernest Beaux to develop the legendary Chanel No.5 fragrance. Initially created as a gift for her friends and clients, it didn't take long before Chanel began widespread sales due to its exquisite blend of florals, aldehydes, and musk in 1922. In addition to expanding her range of perfumes and skincare, including the iconic Chanel No.22, she was also equally notorious for the iconic Chanel bottles that symbolised extreme luxury, sophistication, and beauty, which every woman at the time wanted.

The Chanel suit: "The world's most elegant uniform" 

The culmination of the Manifesto exhibition is the iconic Chanel suit, aptly described as a "declaration of modern femininity." The final room presents a breathtaking collection of her women's suits, each showcased on beautifully illuminated mannequins. Chanel's suits represented a complete departure from the constricting, corseted fashion that dominated her era. She crafted these suits for the Chanel women, emphasising a silhouette that prioritised freedom of movement and comfort. As Vogue noted in 1964, Chanel's suits became "the world's most elegant uniform," encouraging women to break free from the confines of traditional fashion and the male gaze. This room serves as a unique testament to the enduring influence of Chanel's innovation.

Chanel’s textiles and eye for fabric