Raf Simons' Spring 2023 striking Ready-to-Wear collection

Belgian designer Raf Simons recently unveiled his Spring/Summer 2023 collection at a London nightclub where the bar became a runway.

The launch was originally planned for September 16, during London Fashion Week, but the designer postponed the show due to the death of Queen Elizabeth II. 

His spring show was finally held in October during the Frieze London Fair for contemporary art. That was the first time his collection was presented outside of Paris Fashion Week.

But Simons chose London for his debut runway for a reason. This creative city had a strong influence on the designer during his adolescence and ultimately changed his life. There was a before, and an after. 

Article slider: "28: Raf Simons' Spring"

Raf Simon's trailblazing ideas and influences

Being connected to young people has always been the core of Simon's brand. This collection magnifies a youth-centric spirit with futuristic vibes, where the bar is a tribute to Raf Simons’ memories from his 90s. A symbiosis of performance, dancing and life itself is reflected in his black and white biker jackets with traditional knitwear. 

Prints on t-shirts and dresses are also a hallmark of the namesake label. Simons has always incorporated artists’ work into his collections, with white dresses and t-shirts embellished with words as a homage to Philippe Vandenberg’s works. 

As well as fabulous prints, his collection is also full of minimalistic elements, such as hip-length jackets, double-breasted coats and pleated shorts. It was also defined by oversized silhouettes with a less loose fit and big shoulders.

Equally noteworthy were the Prada vibes on the runway, with one of the models wearing a knitted red catsuit and kitten heels.

Though we can expect to see plenty of vivid colours this season, monochrome outfits are still an integral part of his collection, where grey tailoring goes perfectly with red and yellow leggings. 

The whole collection is ostensibly focused on modern forms and straight silhouettes. The models walked down the bar counter wearing short jumpsuits and knitted rompers, styled with a long-sleeved tee and leggings that came in a dose of colour — from neon yellow and pink to a dull grey and dark chocolate. 

The designer conveyed the feelings of teens' energy and artistic creativity in his collection. The “less is more” approach lies in a tailored uniform, which is balanced with mesh shirts. 

Looking at the new Spring/Summer 2023 collection, we can see how Raf Simons makes tailored uniform come into a perfect dissonance with the rave-culture moodiness, forcing us rethink minimalism in clothing.

Photo credits:Giovanni Giannoni